Brasserie Gerard review

Brasserie Gerard is a peripheral vision sort of place, you know it’s there but you can’t really be bothered focussing in on it. It’s also housed in one of the worst buildings in Manchester with one of the best views.

If you’re a family dining at Brasserie Gerard having Manchester’s main civic space set close by as a playground isn’t bad – not that crossing a small road first may be to everybody’s taste. Still my boys are city kids.

The view out across Albert Square to the Town Hall Square is lovely. The view from the Square to the Commercial Union Building which hosts Brasserie Gerard is dull. The Commercial Union Building was designed by Kingham Knight Associates in 1983, architects who I’ve never heard of and never want to hear of again. Name and shame I say.

Much of the menu looks like a throwback to the eighties too. Not so long ago I had a so-called tagine there that was like a school dinner stew with added spices – and not one of those Jamie Oliver school dinners that dinner ladies don’t want to cook either. It was a waste of £14.95. On previous business visits (not through choice) I’ve had a bourguignon and a salmon grill. Thoor as well.

But passing on a Friday evening with the youngest son on the way to the taxi rank and both of us hungry, I saw a punter steaking it and the flesh looked good so we went in.

After enjoying a handsome 8oz sirloin (£16.95) with fries, tomato and a sharply done peppercorn sauce (a rip off £1.95) I’m feeling happy about the decision.   

This was a fine steak cooked precisely medium rare that was juicy, gentle and melted away in the mouth as though someone had invented a meat ice-lolly. Actually that’s wrong (and sounds very wrong too) because the texture of the meat and the way it had been timed in cooking was part of the attraction of the dish. It proved, you should only ever, ever, ever, ever, eat the steaks off the mains menu at Brasserie Gerard, the rest is blandness by numbers.

Ralph, the nine-year-old wasn’t doing as well as his dad. The kids deal was main, dessert, hot and cold drink for £5.95. The boy chose unwisely, he chose penne pasta with a lacklustre sauce when he should have gone for the burger or the fish.

“Boring this,” he said, “can I steal one of your chips?” “Go ahead, my son,” I said. He took a chip and inserted it into the penne pasta. “That’s much better,” he said munching away, “a pasta chip.” “Ingenious,” I said, and we got him half way through his meal that way, at which point he said. “While you finish, can I go and play in the square?” “Be careful on the road,” I said.

I finished the steak, sipped a good house Merlot available by the carafe (£12.95) and watched him make an assault course of Albert Square. If you’re a family and dining at Brasserie Gerard having Manchester’s main civic space set close by as a playground isn’t bad – not that letting your child cross a small road first may be to everybody’s taste. Still my boys are city kids.

  When Ralph came back we shared his chocolate waffle. It was surprisingly good, the chocolate appearing in a warm flood like a volcano in a Willy Wonka’s factory. We also had a laugh with the waitress who was a natural when it came to good service: young lady, efficient, smiling, Brasserie Gerard should promote her.

After leaving a hefty tip we sailed out to our taxis full and happy. I confess I had a go with the boy scaling the Albert Memorial as well.

To sum up, Brasserie Gerard is largely dull, but with great steaks, a good children’s menu (as long as you get chips with the penne pasta) and a great view. Very good steaks, try one if passing.